Monday, September 29, 2008

paris spring/summer 2009 - gareth pugh

just like galliano, mcqueen, or westwood before him, london's current holder of the title "enfant terrible" has taken his latest collection to the center of the fashion universe and onto a much broader stage. perhaps because of his notoriety within the london fashion community, paris gives pugh a chance to show the world that he is worth more than shock tactics. because underneath the avant garde sensibility is a an earnest effort to build a brand that can be influential both idealogically and commercially. however that didn't mean that he was to abandon all the trademark showmanship and gothic/futuristic themes by crossing the pond. regardless how seriously fashion is taken in paris as a business, it also the place where ideas are just as important as sales figures. limiting his colour palette to black and white (more specifically and literally split in half into the front being white and the back black), pugh accentuated his already exagerrated shapes by how he divided the silhouette into two sharp parts when viewed from the profile. and with shapes taking influences from elizabethan, victorian, mixed in with sci-fi, pugh along with other parisian designers such as ghesquiere seems to be hell bent on taking fashion to the future. however as talented as pugh is, he still hasn't reached that level of maturity to percolate all those ideas and re-direct them into a tangible form that is truly mass marketable. although having singer roisin murphy decked out in one of his armor like dresses which was also sent down the runway might just provoke a second thought.


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