after a week of optimism filled with displays of playfulness and girlish and feminine charm, it was a welcome sight to see a designer like kai kühne who stuck to his underground and sombre sensibility and did so by presenting perhaps his most accomplished collection since going at it solo after departing from the design collective known as as four. showcasing his brilliant tailoring skills, kühne took an expensive risk experimenting with the fabric, pleating, paneling, darting and folding them into complicated origami like shapes. despite all the experimentation and a reputation as one of the more avant garde designers showing in new york, kühne's collection for spring was not only his best collection, it was also his most commerical one. showing as many options for day as there was for the evening. and he did it without sacrificing any of his own personal vision and accomplished it with the most sophisticated result. while the dresses was for sure the standout of this collection, he also showed razor sharp jackets, slim as well as full legged trousers and a plethora of coats. the latter something that was generally absent from all the other runways. this season has seen many watershed collections from young new york designers and the big apple's previous enfant terrible kai kühne has displayed a maturity that will lead him to great things ahead.