after so many seasons of being the tough guy of the new york fashion scene, it was nice to finally see the softer side of phi. the label designed by andreas melbostad that has gained a reputation for its tough, street wise aesthetic and strong tailoring. while there was still a strong sense of tailoring with this collection, the fabrics that he chose gave it a lighter hand. silks in pale colours that softly reflected lights paired with lingerie inspired camisoles, some decorated with pailettes gave the a collection a much more feminine feel that was somewhat new since phi also has a reputation for being slightly androgynous. what was also new this season was a more voluminous silhouette. the clothes flowed away from the body, but since the fabrics were so light, each movement allowed the fabric to gently skim the body giving an insinuation of the form that lied underneath. the detailing and construction of the pieces seemed to have been a continuation from last winter's lingerie inspired collection worked this time around into mesh panelling in tops and dresses. the vision and direction that melbostad had worked on for his label has long been realized, but this time he also proved its flexibility.