Wednesday, September 24, 2008

milan spring/summer 2009 - francesco scognamiglio

although the street and youth culture is where many young designers gather their inspirations from, there are a rare few who looks to the past and tradition, particularly the art of haute couture as a muse that becomes a catalyst for their creations. what makes these designers not merely revivalists is a thorough understanding of the demands that modern women, not fifties socialites need from their clothes. take francesco scognamiglio for instance, while the silhouette, technique, decorations, and fabrications is similar to a couture vernacular, his interpretation of it is in tune with a sort of gothic romanticism that is in favor with many of his colleagues. the use of transparency and ruffles, two emerging trends that is becoming more apparent for spring/summer '09 injects his work with a sense of perfect timing. but it isn't in his on the moment aim on trends that makes him such an interesting designer. his execution of technique is how he is going to make his mark in such a competitive business, especially for designers just starting out. in many ways his work evokes a lot of hubert givenchy's iconic architectural pieces of his early years. the sharply tailored pant suits with the sharply peaked shoulders worn with delicately decorated sheer white blouses, and figure hugging cocktail dresses adorned with arabesque vines, ruffles, or rosettes harkens back to couture's glory days. however it is impossible to see someone like mona von bismarck , or babe paley wearing these clothes. despite the high level these clothes are made, there is something perfectly imperfect about them. no matter how decorated or embellished, the clothes have an effortless and easy quality about it. like a girl can just throw it on and run out the door with her hair still sort of wet and she looks perfect and nonchalant. it is that quality that makes it modern.


No comments:

Blog Archive