the problem with young designers who fall under the "avant garde" umbrella is that it could either propell them at the forefront of the list of influential designers, or their work could just come across as pretentious and trying too hard. brazillian designer alexandre herchovitch, who although unarguably is immensely talented has received his fair share of criticism for his sometimes too conceptualized and overly thought out ideas. but just like hussein chalayan who can also be a hit or miss, when herchovitch does find the extremely fine line between avant garde yet understandable, and or wearable, then the talent of the young designer is finally revealed. the exploration of the female form and the experimentation of shapes using clothes has been a theme that has been consistently present with all of herchovitch's collections. for spring/summer 2009 herchcovitch found the control he needed that he was able to push his ideas until the very brink of approachable design. although there were some shapes that seems to be quite similar to the architectural forms nicholas ghesquier designed for the house of balenciaga for spring/summer 2008 with the multi pocketed shift dress in khaki with a constructed egg shape, it still managed to flow with the rest of the collection that featured abstracted floral prints, silk blouses, a trumpet hummed dress in fuschia, and ruffles that contrasted the structured military influenced pieces at the beginning of the collection. despite all the different elements that made up the collection, and which is sometimes the problem with herchovitch, this time around he found a way to make them all cohesive and be different languages that still told the same story. not to say that he is getting soft or anything, where else would you find little ruffles at the crotch of rompers and tappered trousers? but with all the wearable pieces his fans can now actually wear, a little ruffle in obscure places won't hurt.