Wednesday, September 10, 2008

new york - proenza schouler - spring/summer 2009

it was a return to old proenza schouler for spring/summer 2009. a dramatic departure from last season's voluminous fluidity, this time around the duo revisited the strong, sharp angularity of their first few collections. sex has been a big theme during new york fashion week, and it was something that didn't escape lazaro hernandez and jake mccollough. even sending the models out in ruby red lips and lana turner waves, they looked like jerry hall clones. the model who defined late seventies and early eighties sexuality. the strong, exaggerated, and rounded shoulders provided a commanding silhouette that was reminiscent of eighties power dressing without any retro attachment. opening the show with structured voluminous pieces in graphic black and white, it was a continuation of the silhouette they first presented with their resort collection. by mid show, a more body conscious silhouette appeared made from transparent synthetic fabrics that gave a hint of the flesh underneath providing the tension against all the looseness and excessive fabric at the beginning. towards the end it was back to the volume and the black and white with some shots of yellow. since selling the majority of their share to the valentino group and thereby securing financial backing, hernandez and mccollough have taken riskier approach to their designs. even debuting a full accesory collection to complete and compliment the whole proenza schouler ideology. while this might be one of their more riskier attemp from a commercial perspective, it was undoubtedly one of their more experimental collection, and one that could potentially pay off in spades.


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