Wednesday, September 24, 2008

milan spring/summer 2009 - gianfranco ferré

there was a time when designer gianfranco ferre was at the forefront of fashion. even awarded the illustrious job as the head designer for christian dior after marc bohan's lengthy career for the house in 1989. the eighties and the early nineties was the perfect time for ferre's opulent and architectural designs. but with the strenght of the minimalist movement gaining momentum, his point of view fell out of favor with the rest of the fashion world. when ferre sadly passed away last year the house looked towards an unstaible future. this state of uncertainty only got worse after the debut collection of the in-house team of designers were received with scathing reviews. after lars nisson quit his position as creative director even before he had a chance to put out a collection for the following season, the future of the house not only looked looked downright bleak. but whoever was praying for the salvation of the house got their prayer answered when designers tommaso aquilano and roberto rimondi of the label 6267 presented their first collection for the house. paying the most humble respect to what made ferre such a brilliant designer, the duo concentrated and elaborated on the architectural elements of the house. how they made that modern without it being too heavy or dated was by a clean colour palette, and strong graphic shapes that didn't tip over on the verge of being over dramatic or theatrical. they basically simplified the classic ferre recipe and spiced it up with just the right amount of embellishments. the shapes were less complicated and the drama of the clothes came from either through controlled volume, or a strictness in tailoring the accentuated the female form. these two designers have managed what many have been waiting for since ferre himself was still alive. to be able to find the formula to usher the house into the twenty first century.


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