Thursday, September 25, 2008

milan spring/summer 2009 - marni

the marni aesthetic has always played with the bounderies of good and bad taste. designer consuelo castiglioni has built an empire on that philosophy. just like her fellow country woman miuccia prada, castiglioni understands the psychology of combining intellectualism, eccentricity and naivete into a collection that tugs at the emotional responses of women. there really isn't a word to describe the whole marni aesthetic as anything else but being very "marni". its as if that word has developed its own meaning because of the strength and highly individual point of view of castiglioni and collaborator lucinda chambers. even though there are other designers out there who freely mixes prints and patterns like dries van noten, or christian lacroix, the marni look still very much stands capably on its own. for spring/summer 2009 castiglioni took marni to its most colourful. the trademark mixing of patterns and textures and ingenious colour combinations were present but was added by the use of decorations such as plastic paillettes, transparency as layering, and a more structured silhouette. but just like every other marni collection, individually the pieces presented are commercial blockbusters that are indetifiable with the brand even without the complete look it was presented with. it all has that quirky charm that intitially endeared all the marni devotees with the house in the first place.


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