after much consideration on how to describe marc jacobs' most recent runway presentation, the only way i can describe it would be something along the lines of how european eccentrics like john galliano or jean paul gaultier would design a collection if they were american. there were so many references in jacobs' spring/summer 2009 collection but like galliano and gaultier, jacobs has the capacity to divine inspiration from so many diverse and incongrous sources yet be able to find the cohesive thread that pieces it all together. there is something gloriously insane on how marc developed his collections during the past couple of years. it takes a highly sophisticated eye and taste level to achieve the mix-mash of ideas ranging anywhere from iconic american fashion such as the workman's plaid, forties inspired silhouette with the squared shoulders and nipped in waist, a hint of amish attire, and display one of the most accomplished colour use during fashion week. despite the noticeable americana influence, the six months he spends in europe working for louis vuitton has injected a european sensibility to his work that augments his own vision for his eponymous label. even just to look back at his work five years ago, there is a noticeable absence of the playfullness and "je ne sais quoi" that is so pronounced in his more recent collections. there is less references to the seventies and little girl charm with a hint of sexuality that was his most consistent theme for many years. amongst the madness of his presentation, there is an intellectual approach to the work that many fail to see under all the layers of clothes. even his ever growing accessory line is quickly shedding its american utalitarianism for unapologetic frivolity and decorative quality. although not as conceptual as his now infamous spring/summer 2008 collection, this show had the same surrealist feel high lighted by the row of mirrors and ingenious styling. but when the looks are taken apart and each individual garment is exposed alone, this collection is one of jacobs' most commercial outing to date.