Wednesday, September 24, 2008

milan spring/summer 2009 - prada

the last time miuccia prada used sex as the main theme for a collection was six years ago. with that show she referenced traditional associations connected to femininity such as the high heel, hosiery, satin, sequins, sheer blouses, etc. and just like then, when miuccia puts sexuality front and center, she inadvertently not only perfectly captures the mood of the moment, she also fully excercises and stretches the idea to its limit, and presents it in the most original way. for this collection, prada took inspiration from somewhere closer to home. as the models came down the runway, visions of amorous women appeared as if out of a black and white fellini movie from the fifties. with its chignon, drop pearl earings, pencil skirts and tittering platform shoes it evoked the traditional italian perception of what makes a woman sexual and sensual. think women like monica belluci or sophia loren. after so many seasons of exploring the intellect of the child/woman, this collection, and the one before it was decidedly more mature. and the maturity of this clothes came from its searing sensuality. a revealing slit on a skirt, the bra as outerwear, clothes precariously held together by bands of ribbons or see-through tape, crumpled fabrics that appears to have been caused by a ravenous liaison, and dresses held up by straps that criss-crossed behind the neck that tied the collection with the idea of suspension she explored with her menswear presentation, all these elements added up to prada's most erotically charged collection to date.


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