paris - maison martin margiela - fall/winter 2008

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
there is probably no other designer who has managed to illicit an almost cult leader status than martin margiela. the legion of fans he has acquired since opening his own fashion house in 1988 and his association with the legendary belgians "the antwerp six" has garnered him one of the most devout fan base in fashion. his discipline and his passion for perfecting his craft, added by his disassociation with the press in this age of celebrity designers has made him a modern day cristobal balenciaga. like the grand master of couture, margiela's approach to his design is a slow evolution rather than a new concept each new season. the ideas he presents on his pret a porter collection could be a continuation of his demi-couture artisanal line, or it could be the result of the later. whatever it is, his voice is not only one of the most influential voice in fashion, it is also the most underrated. to witness the scope of his influence, one only has to take note on the resurgence of the padded shoulder. a look that he unleashed in dramatic proportions a few seasons ago has now been adapted by designers across the capitals. this season the ideas he proposed are a bit more conceptual and avant garde. its not the easiest show to dissect or figure out how these ideas can trickle down into a more commercial form. he started the show with the one leg dress or pants he toyed around with a few years back. this time around it was worn under spider web knits or softly draped tops. this proportion is challenging enough on tall slender models, let alone to the average woman. however, the towering collars and lapels on jackets and dresses he showed, although still too exagerrated for normal wear, can be minimized into a more approachable level that proves that once again that fashion needs someone like margiela to bring new ideas to the table. a table that a few seasons later, all other designers will be eating from.



photo: style.com