Wednesday, February 6, 2008

new york - women's fall/winter 2008 - day five


marc jacobs' diffusion line has enjoyed massive commercial success since its launch almost a decade ago. the secret to the success of these clothes is because marc, perhaps more than any other designers, is the most in-tune with the younger generation. for all we know marc could be suffering from peter pan syndrome, but at least he's making money out of it. the feeling of the marc by marc show is always like a trip to the best vintage store in the whole world. his knack for reinterpreting old ideas and tweaking it and making it modern has been a template many designers have tried to emulate. and the lower price points is also extremely attractive to the kids who can't afford his more expensive signature line or louis vuitton. this season, the show had a new wave theme running all through it. you could see it on the baggy boyfriend trousers, graphic stripes, and punk meets girly details in the diamond print skirt with zipper worn with a dainty polka dot top. pair those with dark sunglasses and black motorcycle boots and the look is sealed. unlike his signature line, the marc by marc label is a commercial outlet for the designer to have fun with and where ideas from his own label and vuitton percolate into something unquestionably a sure bet for retailers. nobody expects to come to this show and see groundbreaking ideas, but they do expect to see good outfits. and he's never failed us once.


few can resist the charm karen walker infuses into her collections. mixing eras and styles as efficient and exciting as a dj beat juggling, walker's talent for continually producing collections that appeals to the same kids luxury brands are stealing looks from says a tremendous deal about the designer who has her finger on the pulse even though she's based in far away new zealand. and for her clothes to be the object kids break their piggy banks for, her clothes individually picked apart are pieces that will last longer than current trends. they are easily adaptable to different situations which gives the clothes longevity in the closet. it is her ability to make different things together work that is her strongest point in the same vein that marc by marc jacobs, and luella are so successful. what makes her different from the two is that her clothes are always extremely, almost naively feminine. it reworks little girls party dresses and details like bows, ruffles, and peter pan collars and makes them desirable for girls who aren't interested in acquiring the new it bag or shoes. these clothes are for young women who loves the joy clothes give them, not the status it provides. and that is perhaps the greatest accomplishment of the designer.


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