in a time when questions about the health of the economy is on everyone's mind, it is expected to be reinterpreted in fashion in two distict ways. the first being an obvious sense of sobriety where the display of unabashed luxury seems totally innapropriate therefore resulting in collections that had a certain air of austerity. or it could be quite the opposite. where the designer aims not for the woman's intellectual and rational side, but in that where her essence as a woman resides. offering her pieces of exeptional beauty that irregardless of cost is something that speaks to her as a woman who like all woman, cannot resist the allure of something beautiful. to generally summarize the fall/winter collections, it was, in lack of a better word, uninspired. it is logical for designers to play it safe when customers are uncertain about spending, but if they took the time to study and learn from the legendary designers during the great depression like vionnet or schiaperelli, they would've realized that in troubled times, the greatest antidote is fantasy. a lesson that didn't escape alexander mcqueen, nicolas ghesquiere at balenciaga, ricardo tisci at givenchy, or alber elbaz at lanvin who produced a collection that incorporated elements of couture, religion or colonial england that became a time machine to happier days that has gone by. and for those who aren't interested in the romantic ideas of the past, fortunately there is miucca prada, stefano pilati at ysl, and consuelo castiglioni at marni. designers who respects the tradition of the past, but brazenly move foward with an uncompromising vision. and as always, what would fashion be like without those who have the courage to take it where its never been before. the city of london that gave us some of fashion's most inspirational mavericks continues that tradition with marios schwab and louise goldin. and just like his predecessors rei kawakubo and yohji yamamoto, jun takahashi of undercover continues to explore the ideas of western uniform and combining it with a japanese aesthetic to present it back to us in a new way. if there is anything to take from the month long collections is this, in the two thousands there are so many options for consumers that even if they're the romantic kind, or the woman on the go with a family and a career, she will still have a plethora of beautiful. and it is in having those options that makes these collections completely modern.
10. marni 9. louise goldin
8. undercover 7. alexander mcqueen
6. marios schwab 5. lanvin
4. givenchy 3. yves saint laurent
2. balenciaga 1. prada