last season, neil barrett, the designer known for tweaking the idea of formal dressing decided to detour his usual route and presented a collection that was an exercise in experimental tailoring. this season there was still that experimental spirit in the presentation, but this time it had more to do with the process to achieve the desired look of the garments, rather than the actual finished product. the result was leather and jersey seamlessly fused together on shirts, jackets, and a myriad of interpretation on the classic trench coat. despite all the fabric innovation involved with this collection, barrett also played with proportions, and volume. the now ubiquitous long tops that skims and moves around the body to create a sense of volume was paired with trousers that had bit of room that gently tapered around the ankles. offering a new dimension to the slim pant conversation that has been going on for the better half of this decade. the volume however wasn't limited to fine jersey tanks or trousers, it also appeared on more tailored pieces. the most interesting of all was a black double breasted jacket that had a swing in its movement it almost felt like a tunic. there is a confidence that is becoming more and more apparent in barrett's work. a voice that can eloquently convey his love for formality, and his new found interest in pushing that formality into something directional and maybe even something that is a lot more personal. a direction that is quietly making him one of the more interesting talents developing under the radar.