last season was bruno pieter's first runway presentation for hugo. the visual assault he unleashed with all the bauhaus and constructivist references gave way to a collection that still owed much of its sharp lines from the past collection, but all the severity the palette of red/white/black and graphic prints contributed to dissipated into almost a feeling of clinical serenity. a cleanliness that almost burns like when you slather your hands with purel. maybe this was a way for pieter's to move away from last season but at the same time retain his trademarks. which is all about his tailoring and play with proportions. there was still a rigid angularity with the clothes but somehow to do it all in white, icy blues only momentarily interrupted by navy, red and gold gave it a sort of calmness which was only augmented by the clerical collars of the shirts and the nautical colours of the collection. and while the navy and white striped cropped double breasted jackets paired with pleated sorts somehow channeled the spirit of eighties montana and mugler, or even sometimes armani, pieter's vision is so identifiable that he actually managed to evade falling into any retro cliches. clearly hugo is a brand that is not catered for the masses. that is for hugo's older brother hugo boss. hugo is for boys who aren't scared to play expensively and confidently.