Tuesday, June 30, 2009

givenchy: menswear - spring/summer 2010

it takes a cross cultural alchemist like ricardo tisci to combine polar opposites such as desert nomads and bronx boriquas into a collection that offers new hypotheses that sparks a heated conversation about the idea of what clothes represents to the modern man. while his critics will argue that such a highly romanticized and stylized vision gets a bit verbose, his supporters on the other hand can lay claim that since his inaugural presentation for givenchy homme a mear one year ago, the house has had a profound influence in the world of male fashion that might even surpass his influence for his contribution on the women side. perhaps because of the amount of idea and work that goes into the pieces such as his treatment of layering print on top of each other and his unusual choice of fabrication (lace and metal mesh anyone?) and an experimentation with cut and silhouette that challenges the traditional confines of the male wardrobe which is regulated by a much stricter code as opposed to his female counterpart that such renegade sensibility can be viewed as an almost vulgar disregard to traditions and concepts of male sexuality that can prove to be challenging and hard to digest for many. but men's fashion, needs someone like tisci. the perennial envelope pusher that acts as a conduit for new ideas and disperses it until it eventually percolates and become reinterpreted into a more diluted, understandable and eventually a more commercial form. and one has to be reminded that it has only been three seasons since tisci took control of the givenchy man. although he already asserted a strong personality for the house, just like with his womenswear it may take time for everyone to finally clue in on what he is doing. and in just four years he not only stabilized the future of the once uncertain house that has become a revolving door for designers, he also managed to give it a new sense of relevance and idenity that has become one of the most influential force in fashion.

photo: men.style.com

No comments: