considering that historically, japan was an introverted country that made no associations with the outside world, how ironic is it then that out of all the designers in the world, it is the japanese that has embraced the influences and ideas of other cultures, yet translate it in a way that retains a japanese identity? tatsuro horikawa, much like his compatriots in the industry, is one that can take such unorthodox references for a menswear collection, and turn it into a collection with such poignancy and relevance that it produces something rarely experienced in a menswear presentation...emotion. maybe because it is rooted in religions that has a deep focus on spirituality. the costumes of buddhist monks and muslim women was the major influence this season and what came out was cross between a mummy and a nun. consisting mostly of languidly draped white tunics and trousers only occasionally interfered with black, it provoked a a feeling of watching someone attain nirvana. there was a romantic serenity that lent its behavior to the movement of the clothes. this season in both paris in milan the art of draping fabric turned up in almost every collection. it was one of the few trends that was consistent in both cities but it was at julius where this trend reached it zenith. it was beautiful, fragile without sacrificing any masculinity. it provoked not only emotions but also a discussion of what can be part of a man's wardrobe today. considering this show incited such passionate discussion, it can only be a sign of greater things ahead for this label.