veronique branquinho has been one of fashion's best kept secrets since she started her own label back in 1997. a designer of choice for those who appreciates exquisite tailoring that comes from an intellectual sensibility. but plagued by inconsistent reviews by critics who perhaps do not fully understand her point of view, she hasn't really experienced the success of her fellow belgian designers such as olivier theyskens or raf simons. that may change after next season when for the first time really, there was a relaxed sense of lightness with her most recent collection. it didn't feel too forced or deliberate. rather it felt natural with all the relaxed silhouette, airy fabrics, and softly draped silk dresses with the most beautiful prints of the season depicting serene landscapes of deserts, the sea shore, and spectacular sunsets. there was also a common thread with her menswear presentation she showed three months ago that knitted it closely with this collection. she has toyed with male/female versions of the same clothes in the past, but it was the feeling rather than the actual garments that connected her menswear and womenswear collection together. it was coherent and unified, and the story she was trying to tell came out clear and easily translated. and after so much strictness brought about by her sharp tailoring from her previous collections, suffocated by her sometimes too thought out execution, this time she managed to make the clothes breath. perhaps it is the injection of life to her work that will finally give branquinho her just dues.