Saturday, January 24, 2009

yohji yamamoto - autumn/winter 2009

one of the strongest themes of the season is that of a savage hermit. the nomadic man who uses clothes as protection against the elements. the man who is too pre-occupied with survival that the purpose of clothes are not just mere decoration, but a necessity. clothes as a metaphor on the cycle of life is a territory that has been explored by yamamoto throughout his career. whether celebrating the joyful episodes of life or its more arduous journeys, yamamoto always manages to weave a story that compliments his aesthetic, and at the same time be conducive with whats going on in the world. while the general mood of the collections has been that of battle ready defiance, as tim blanks has brilliantly pointed out, this collection seems rather exhausted. last season he sent a model out in a suit to get the morning paper and milk. this season that man couldn't be bothered changing out of his pajamas to grab a baguette. and when he did put clothes on to venture out he couldn't care less that his jacket was inside out nor the fact that he was wearing his boxer shorts over his trousers. as pessimistic as this might sound, maybe yamamoto was the only one to have the balls to say that in all the talks about optimism and being tough during the recession, the reality is that it won't be all good. people will lose their jobs, maybe even lose their homes and have to resort to living on the streets and piling on clothes for warmth. as much its been said that in these times that fashion's purpose is to provide fantasy, maybe yamamoto is arguing that it should just as much about representing reality.


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