Sunday, January 18, 2009

les hommes - autumn/winter 2009

the label, conceived by designers tom notte and bart vandebosch who met while students at antwerp's prestigious royal academy of fine arts has many of the traits that is pervasive to houses that are helmed by a duo rather than an individual. there is a sense of tension where two ideas collide and in effect produce a collection that is at once cohesive, but other times appears to be somewhat schizophrenic, but rarely losing control. the cohesive part of this collection probably owes much to the sensibility of many belgian designers to channel youthful angst and melancholy and use rigorous formal technique to produce a collection that owes most of its strength to its superb tailoring. where jackets came with slanted pleats that echoes the shape of the body to provide a strong graphic interest or in the form of a basket weave to give another visual dimension to an otherwise wardrobe staple. but where it comes short is when the designers attempt to over dramatize their vision with stylistic touches like with elizabethan collars and headbands that was not conducive to the personality of the clothes. a small miss-step perhaps, but given the young age of this fledgling label it is easy to forgive and forget such minor things when the talent presented is so obvious.

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