alexander mcqueen has always been one of fashion's most erudite story teller. his ability of manifest such a broad romantic vision into a collection that once dissected, floods with individual pieces that are immaculately made and commercially understandable has been a talent he has mastered and perfected over the years. he has come a long way since the bumster pants of his early years and his work is now more mature and sophisticated but never once betrays the rebelliousness of his youth. there is still that macabre and gothic quality with the way he presents a collection that creates a fluid story which is usually based on a historical figure. that historical figure this season was the marquess of queensberry. the 19th century scottish nobleman who endorsed the rules that has since become the basis of the sport of modern boxing. which explained the boxing gloves and why there was a dandy vein running through the collection and was the perfect vehicle to showcase mcqueen's remarkable saville row trained tailoring. a pronounced masculinity has been one of the biggest themes during the milan calendar. with many designers showing a collection based on their idea of what the strong, modern man should look like, mcqueen takes the prize by presenting the most sartorial gladiator we've seen all week. after all it was based on a boxer. and any man who can stand inside a rink bruised, bloodied, and alone with just his bare hands as his weapon, possesses a transcendent courage very few people have.