bruno pietres knife like precision on how he handled his inaugural runway presentation for hugo is so precise in its exercise of technique and thoughtfulness that it warrants accolades for being the most perfectly executed presentation during the milan/paris menswear calendar so far. granted that this collection owes a lot of its affinity with raf simons' eponymous runway show last season, what differs is that while the youthful spirit is concisely present, pieters delved into his german modernist background as the launching point of his most vocal visual display of his career. the strict bauhaus palette of red/black/white and a perfect angle that owes its corners and sense of space to an almost perfect algebraic equation is the sum that adds up to one that will undoubtedly be the most directional vision for the upcoming season. while milan was so concentrated on masculinity in the definitive sense, ergo classic tradition, paris is becoming a display of the masculine in the modernist vocabulary. taking the icons of sartorial elegance, which is deeply rooted in technique and tradition and interpreting it into something that takes its inspiration from schools that delves into manipulating historical aspects and regurgitating it into something that is unforgivably of its time, pieters has brewed a pot that mixes in old world elegance with the ethos of reality that has become the cornerstone of the modernist manifesto. consider the neckline of his suits and coats with its jutting angular peaks of matching yet condescending prints that provides an almost hallucinogenic visual point of interest that forces the eye to focus on the cut rather than the effect. where jackets are slightly slashed to perfect angle to the sweaters worn underneath bellies the conscious decision of the designer to make the audience concentrate on the abilities of the tailors constructing the garment. for a collection that is so directional in its intent and so adamant on putting its foot down on what the sensibility of this label is all about in a time when playing it safe should be the ulterior motive, designer bruno pieters is without a doubt a messiah in these tumultuous times and one that could possible be the most defining voice since hedi slimane.
photo: men.style.com
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