Tuesday, January 27, 2009

givenchy - autumn/winter 2009

the silhouette and tisci's trademark gothic sensibility was as prevalent as it was for his givenchy homme debut last season, it is there where the similarities with his second menswear collection ends. last season's tinge of romanticism and fragility with the lace and fuschia mixed in with the leather and blacks were all abandoned this season. there was a decidedly more aggressive tone with this presentation where as he had done with his womenswear show in the past, tisci opened the show with a parade of black models dressed in all black and leather. a commanding opening that showed the clothes on the backs of real men and not on the rail thin models that has dominated the catwalks in recent years. it was a powerful statement that set the mood for the collection. dominated by his use of black with the occasional shot of deep brown, icy blue/white and beige, the power of tisci's vision augmented by the sharp tailoring and the sense of drama the designer is reknowned for made for one of the most impactful visual message of the show season. while last season was applauded for its aesthetic execution, it was also criticized for lacking in commercial viability. a hot pink lace shirt would look amazing for an editorial, but how convincing is that for a real consumer to buy to wear in the real world. just like with his womenswear collection for the house, tisci needs time to fully develop the givenchy man. and that lesson can only be really learned through trial and error. this season he succeeded in presenting immaculately tailored coats and jackets. would you wear said coats and jackets with cuffed shorts worn over leather lace-up leggings is however another story. a story that would probably have a different ending in the showroom for buyers and only add fuel to the tisci train that shows no sign of slowing down.

photo: men.style.com

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