since showing his signature line in milan, it's almost been expected for neil barrett to show a collection based on a sense of uniforms. from bikers, to military, ski wear, to formal attire, he is a designer more known with working within the diameters of a particular "look" and re-interpreting it with his signature tailoring. this season however saw the designer experimenting not just with silhouettes and cut, but rather the actual appearance of the garment. where asymmetrical panelings became the focal point on coats and jackets, and his trademark vest came out as a bib complete with collars and pocket vents worn underneath. he also reworked his signature use of leather using a fabric normally associated with outerwear and transformed it into lightweight cardigans and into a sweater with an embossed cable-knit pattern. and if that wasn't a departure enough he also experimented with proportions. offering a more squared and cropped jacket paired with hip slung trousers that ranged from slim fitting to something a bit more generous and a couple inspired by the dhoti pants of india. although many are already pointing out similarities with the great avant garde japanese designers, this was very much a neil barrett collection. it had the same youthful spirit and attention to detail that has garnered him legions of fans. and while the direction of this collection is brand new territory, it had just the right amount of fashion and functionality that would not alienate his old customers, but will guarantee earn him loads of new ones.