Saturday, January 24, 2009

ute ploier - autumn/winter 2009

presenting perhaps the most mature and sophisticated collection of her young career, designer ute ploier has ascended her house out of a luxury street wear brand into a full on luxury label that was able to show growth and maturity, but never once abandoning the youthful spirit she always manages to inject into her clothes. as with alexander mcqueen who showed a few days earlier, ploier was also inspired by the sport of boxing. throughout the collections there has been a warrior spirit permeating through the shows in paris and milan. in these challenging times designers are presenting their ideal image of a man who can fight through times of crises. gone are the ambiguous sexual innuendos and androgynous sensibilities that was one of the most influential themes of the two thousands. while ploier never really explored the androgyne idea, her past presentations had an undeniable "boyish" quality but with a vision stoically towards the future. there was never any obvious past or retro references in her work. it was always clean, modern, with a vigor and utilitarianism that had its youthful spirit planted firmly on the ground. but as it goes, when push comes to shove and times get hard even the little boy is forced to grow up quick. and ute's boys fortunately now have their grown up clothes to wear that can help present them as a man ready to tackle the real world, but never losing their fiery, virile independence.

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