after last fall's exercise in disciplined form and structure, francisco costa loosened up quite a bit for the resort collection he designed for calvin klein. although the "pleats please" mantra of issey miyake was the most obvious thread that ran throughout the collection, it wasn't the only japanese influence that was present. while many will remember calvin klein as the undisputed master of minimalism, very few recognize the similarity klein shared with other japanese greats like kawakubo or yamamoto. with these designers, klein also challenged traditional concepts of tailoring and the idea of american sports wear. when klein first debuted a more somber silhouette which consisted of knee length skirts and boxier jackets paired with black oxfords in the mid nineties, it escaped a lot of people that that aesthetic shared a lot with the trademarks of contemporary japanese designers. and it seems that costa, who has proven that he is the right man, and maybe the only man to helm the legendary house has picked up on that. asides from the pleated one-shoulder dresses, there were asymmetric jackets with over-lapping lapels or panels of fabric paired with high waisted (obviously) pleated pants that tapered slightly just above the ankle. and to drive the eastern influence home, costa showed a couple of sleeveless tops with exaggerated pagoda shoulders that gave the effect of a slimmer waist line but still providing a commanding silhouette. despite all the strong tailoring that costa presented, this is a resort collection after all and the runway was filled with light weight toga inspired dresses printed in soft silvery snake skin printed in slightly shiny fabrics to catch the sun wherever the people who buy resort are vacationing at. to have such a charmed life to travel when us mere mortals are freezing in sub-zero temperatures requires charmed clothes. and with this collection, costa provided that.