young new york designers could pretty much be divided into two parts. the first follows the tradition of new york's fashion aristocracy such as oscar de la renta or bill blass, and the second has a sensibility that is rooted on the city's urban environment. wayne lee belongs to the latter. and just like many of her contemporaries who belongs to this new school, her work brings a new treatment to the idea of minimalism. a minimalism that is defined by a strict, lean line which when juxtaposed with draping provides something new and current to a familiar idea. there is obviously some helmut lang references to this collection. the strategically placed slashes, the fluid way she layered pieces and the sudden bursts of lemon yellow against the black and whites gives it a dynamic visual punch that echoes the work of the highly influential austrian. but lee isn't just a regurgitator of lang's formula. she is also able to bring her own influences, which this season happens to be sculptor richard serra, and translate the artist's arabesque pieces into clothes that contours the woman's figure. there is a sensuality in the way she cuts and wraps fabric around the body that threads the thin line of being sexually evocative, but never sacrificing the femininity of the clothes. this acute awareness to that fact is perhaps lee's most powerful weapon in her arsenal.