Friday, September 18, 2009

odyn vovk - spring/summer 2010

meaning "one wolf" in ukranian, designer austin sherbanenko could be easily described as the lone wolf of american gothic. now with rick owens showing in paris, and who like sherbanenko founded their respected houses in los ageles, the designer shares the same obsession with the dark and the macabre with the godfather of modern american gothic. inspired by industrial landscapes and polluted urban streets, odyn vovk was a stand out in a season where prints and colours dominated the new york catwalks. with the gothic theme heightened even more so by presenting his collection at the historic st. marc's church. while the vocabulary of the collection, the deconstruction, layered draping, the streamlined silhouette, a predominantly black colour palette, and down to the model casting had all the ingredients that could be identified with highly romantic, goth influenced designers such as owens or haider ackermann, what sets him apart however is how he controls that dark romanticism into something practical and not weighed down by the theatricality that is inseparable from the gothic sensibility. there were straight forward leather jackets that could easily appeal to a broad audience yet specifically target those who share's the designer's aesthetic. whether he took into consideration the taste of middle america one cannot know, but this collection will undoubtedly make this lone wolf the leader of a growing pack.

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