the eighties is an era that although many consider to be a faux pas in fashion memory, it nevertheless continues to be an inspiration for many young designers. but considering all the eighties references that went down the catwalk last season as designers sought to respond to the global economic climate, one would be hard pressed to find something about that decade and interpret it into something new once again. fortunately hannah marshall didn't take the literal route and instead offered a collection that while based on the idea of eighties power dressing with the sharp shoulders and menswear inspired suiting, gave it a contemporary twist by subduing her colour palette and injecting it with references from vintage lingerie. the result was an architectural sexiness where the dresses were tailored with a peplumed waist achieved by ruffles that started out at the hips and tapered down towards the knee. while oversized blazers and men's inspired shirts in chiffon feminized the tailoring. after so much regurgitating of eighties ideas it was refreshing to see it done without carbon copying the past but giving it a new relevance for the present.