Tuesday, July 1, 2008

givenchy - menswear spring/summer 2009

for his inagural menswear collection for givenchy, curiosity abounded how the gothic sensibility of designer ricardo tisci can be translated to a menswear vocabulary. since finally hitting his stride for the womenswear division of the house, critics and consumers were eager to see if has the ability to deliver the same for the house's male customers. because this was a tisci show, the presentation of the clothes did add a bit of drama. instead of a usual runway presentation, his first menswear collection felt a little more like a showroom presentation rather than a full on fashion show. which actually gave the clothes a feeling of sophisticated austerity. working with his usual palette of black, tisci showed a collection filled with exquisitely cut pieces from traditional double breasted suits with a subtle sheen to more forward thinking pieces like leather shorts worn over leggings. the latter something that might concern potential buyers. but if that didn't scare them away, perhaps pink lace shirts with matching pink pleated shorts would have certainly accomplished the job. but to take only those things away from the collection is to ignore the fact that there was an abundance of extremely commercial pieces that without the distraction of the presentation and the styling is filling the gap for the more romantic customer that has been lost since hedi slimane left the business. not to say that tisci is any less of a designer than slimane, his vision is his and his alone, and it is one whose voice is getting stronger and more influential each day.

photo: men.style.com

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