Saturday, March 14, 2009

paris autumn/winter 2009 - miu miu

miu miu has always felt like prada's younger, and somewhat naughtier sister. this season however there was an elegance and a sophistication that was quite unexpected and turned the miu miu girl into a lady. since showing in paris, miu miu has managed to acquire a certain type of parisian character. there's a frivolity and sophistication underlined by sexual subtexts that is a hallmark of french fashion. and considering that nobody does subverted sexuality better than miuccia prada, miu miu has become no longer simply regarded as a secondary line, but a line that is beginning to forge its own identity totally individual from its older sister. while there are obviously going to be similarities that ties both collections together (this season it was the upholster fabric type prints), what this miu miu collection had on its own was its more graphic yet fluid shapes best demonstrated by the coats that opened the show and a lightness in fabrication and movement that was a direct contrast to the signature line's aggressiveness and structure. where in the main line prada used embroidered felt wool and leather to give the collection a harder edge, here she embroidered nylons and silk crepe skirts worn with a sheer blouse with a decolletage so low it revealed a nude coloured brassiere. while it didn't have the intellectual punch compared to what prada showed in milan, it did have an abundance of refined sex appeal that is guaranteed to temp consumers to pull out the old credit card and swipe blindly.


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