what gareth pugh has achieved with his most recent collection is the goal that has eluded many unconfident young designers, maturity. with his latest collection, presented through a seven minute film, pugh's concerted effort to established his house as a money making brand and not simply a fashion event has allowed the young designer to meld his own dark references with a commercial sensitivity to produce a collection that was rich with clothes that are a viable option for consumers with the signature pugh aesthetic. while his previous efforts were based on strict and precise geometry, this collection played on the contrast between softer silhouettes anchored by more structured pieces. best displayed on a tailored shift dress overlayed with chiffon whose attached sleeves acted as soft, diaphanous wings that moved like water in the video presentation. this softer, delicate touch is a reflection on how the city of lights have affected this young man. since showing in paris, pugh's dark and gothic influences that used to be expressed through something quite aggressive has become more soulful and feminine without relying on hyper exaggerating the female form. also there is the fact that luxury goods powerhouse LVMH is now financially backing the young designer. affecting and adding pressure to pugh to translate high concepts into profit in order to continue having the support of bernard arnault. and last january he presented his first separate menswear collection. now that he has the luxury of showing a collection for both sexes each with its own identity yet share the same spirit he can establish a real, and distinct identity for his male and female customers. although there are many visible similarities with the menswear show he presented last january such as the reappearance of the pin head sweaters and trousers and a flattened out pattern of geodesic domes, there was nothing androgynous about this collection at all. that being said does not mean that this show was short on strength. actually, it might've been been his strongest effort to date.