Monday, March 9, 2009

paris autumn/winter 2009 - haider ackermann

columbian born designer haider ackermann has been one of those designers who has for the past few seasons been flying under the fashion radar. for those who hasn't failed to notice this antwerp trained designer, they are familiar with the sensual way he has managed to drape fabric into romantic, sinuous dresses that is able to combine a certain type of latin drama with a melancholic sensibility that is a hallmark of belgian design. this season, when there is no real confident trend emerging and other designers are maniacally scrambling for ideas, ackermann's distinct aesthetic signature is able to stand above other designers who seems to be confused as to how to react to the current climate. hackermann's response in these dire times is to up his own ante. the confidence in his own vision was so apparent in the way he elevated all his distinct trademarks like the said draping and his ability as a tailor to produce some of the most coveted jackets come fall. there was a fluidity with this collection where one look moved so effortlessly with the next. where an intricately folded sequined gold jacket paired with high waisted slim trousers can follow after a boiled wool floor grazing skirt and then continue on with a one shoulder evening dress with a thigh high slit. there was such a rigorous effort in this collection but without looking too worked or too thought out. he simply made the effort to produce the best work he can using his own vocabulary. the result was that not only were the clothes exceptionally beautiful, but the confidence that showed through the pieces is what might possibly and finally take ackermann out of the underground and into foreground.


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