when francisco costa took over the reigns of one of america's most iconic labels, he did so by sticking close to the calvin klein formula of simple, minimalist, and easy to understand ideas based on classic american sporswear which has been the cornerstone of the company. a decision which won him accolades from buyers, consumers, and fickle fashion editors and even winning the prestigious CFDA award for designer of the year in 2006. but over the last few seasons, costa's growing confidence has enabled the designer to experiment with the classic calvin klein aesthetic mixed in with a more directional approach and architectonic sensibility. that architectural spirit is the first obvious mark of costa's signature in the calvin klein empire that can sometimes work to phenomenal results, and at other times be a bit too removed from the purity and simplicity the house is known for. this season however costa managed to inject that old school calvin klein sense of fluid movement that was missing last season with his most recent collection that played on all of the house's strengths. the coat, the garment that klein built his massive empire from was in abundance this season with asymmetric lapels and arabesque panels made from some of the most hi-tech fabrication seen during the new york calendar which fully complimented costa's futuristic vision with the cleanliness and modernity of calvin klein's minimalist ideologies. he also showed dresses with handkerchief hemlines with geometric panels and some in boiled wool stretched to look like lace that had a movement reminiscent to klein's dresses during the nineties. costa's work can sometimes feel too heavy handed, or too worked. an approach which is not conducive with the spirit of the house. but when there is a focused lightness in his hand, costa makes magic.