Sunday, January 17, 2010


ever wondered what princess leah and mad max's child would look like? designers tom notte and bart vandebosch certainly did for they claimed to have been inspired by the movies star wars and thunderdome for their most recent collection. as disparate as those two reference points could be, somehow the designer were able to find a common thread to fuse the two together into a collection that didn't suffer from good showmanship with little real life substance. the duo actually managed to accomplish to send out a collection that had real commercial viability. yes its for a more adventurous man with the ingenious way they turned biker jackets into interesting blazers with knitted lapels or arms with zip closures and one's with padded shoulders to give it the appearance of an armour. pants came in a variety of silhouettes from slim to cropped above the ankle with pleats to provide a dynamic contrast with the usually narrow fitted jackets. at one end it had the peaceful countenance of a yoda, and on the other end that barbaric ways auntie trinity. it displayed the duo's highly original approach when it comes to re-interpreting classics and applying their own point of view to frame a clear picture. even with their strong inclination for schizophrenic references. and that sense of courage and humour is bound to attract more attention to these two highly talented designers.

"protect, explore, inspire". those were the three words designer christopher bailey used as a the backbone for one of his strongest colletion for the house that he famously rescued from duty free obscurity over a decade ago. the heritage of the one hundred fifty three year old house has always been the lifeblood of bailey's work, and for autumn/winter 2010 bailey revisited all the hallmarks that helped forge the spirit of the brand. the military and aviation history of burberry was the pulse that gave this collection its virility. the trench coat of course being the most famous which was so named after it became part of a british soldier's uniform during the trench warfare of world war one done this season with a sloping shoulder cinched on the waist that agitated its volume and one in leather with the same deep petrol blue. aviation flight jackets with an exaggerated shearling collar which will undoubtedly be a blockbuster success once it hits the sales floor came in various lengths and fabrication. and about every other incarnation of the military regimental uniform was sent down the catwalk adjusted slightly for the man who faces not battlefronts but the daily trials of the modern, urban way of life. though this collection is an homage to burberry's military endeavors, it also displayed the technological advances in fabric innovation that the house greatly contributed to which gave the clothes the functionalism to perform for some of the most reknowned explorers of the twentieth century. and bailey clearly didn't seem to neglect infusing this collection with the same spirit of masculine adventure.

raf simon's take on the evolution of the jil sander man since he first took control of the house three years ago is reaching the point where his sensibilities is becoming the dominant persona over jil's. that doesn't mean however that the spirit of the house and its values are about to be deleted. the genius of raf simons is his sensitivity to history and the meaning of the house that over the years have acquired some of the most devout followers in the industry. to compare his first collection for the brand and all his subsequent collections that followed that lead up to this, his most recent one, one gets a clearer picture that he's not supplanting sander's legacy, he's merely adapting his own vocabulary with the house and in turn it has produced some of the most well executed collections in recent memory. his ability to fully develop an idea with such precision and focus is extremely well suited with a new definition of minimalism. at sander where tailoring is paramount, simons' directional approach with the craft and his subtle way of playing with proportions and adding surprising elements, which this season was exemplified with the way he added geometrical shapes on jackets and coats as closures or flaps to cover pockets that were cut with a more arabesque line, he has managed to find the perfect symmetry with his own aesthetic and sander's practicality. while the looks that will have the most editorial exposure in a few months are the more experimental ones, there were also plenty to satisfy consumers who values the brand for its craftsmanship, fabric innovation, and timeless appeal. there were suits in traditional wool checks, oil slick puffa jackets, classic over coats and a growing focus on accessories guarantees that for the new decade will ensure the success of the brand and help it navigate the current economic climate. a testament to the power of raf simons' unyielding vision.


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